Category Archives: Downhill

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And another DIY build!

More DIY frame building from DIRT, and this one looks a little too professional with a super slack 4130 downhill hardtail, the BTR Mark 1!

Paul “Burf” Burford tells us all about his super slack downhill hardtail project and his plans to turn his passion into a career.

The BTR Mark1

Burf: I started racing DH when I was around 14 and have wanted to start my own frame company for as much of that time as I can remember. I was pretty all right at the old DH game, raced in expert for the Muddyfox team back when Stanny, Simmonds, Molloy and the Atherton’s were on it too. Reckon if I put the effort in I could have got onto the World Cup circuit but I guess I kinda realised I wasn’t going to be pro and make anything of it. So while my mates (Ash Loram, Alex Evans, James Mcknight and others) were all doing seasons in Morzine, I took my self to college and Uni to do engineering so I could learn how to make a sick ass bike.

Burf and the frame

 I went to Oxford Brookes Uni to do Motorsport Eng. where I met up with the dudes at K9. Tam Hamilton was on his sandwich year being the CAD engineer there and we just became good mates from then on. We found out that we both wanted to start our own company. Time went on and I flunked out, Tam did his dissertation and then carried on working for K9. I was then basically on the Dole for 6 months till I found a job in a sheet metal place where I learnt to TIG. Then one random day Tam rung me up and said “Are we gonna start this company or what?” That was March 2010.

The fully adjustable jig

Feel the steel

BB junction ready for welding

 Tam designed the frame and I started making tools (jig etc.) I managed to land a sweet job where the bosses don’t really pay much attention to what I do, so I did many a ‘homer’ in order to make the tools I needed.

I had repeatability in mind so I made a tube notcher and a fully adjustable Jig.

Buenos notches

Chainstays

Top notch, that's art that is.

The tube notcher machine.

The tube notcher is an insane bit of work; I still don’t really know how I managed to make it work so well. Made out of offcuts and bits of scrap from work and made in my shed. It’s basically a belt sander and took forever to make it all line up so I could notch the tube accurately. I was pretty excited when I got it running.

I made the jig at work while the bosses were away at a show in America, and the rest of the work force was throwing Ninja death stars at a bit of wood for two weeks. Told you it was a sweet job!

Burf in action welding...not sure about the foot wear!

 It took ages to find 4130 tubes in the right diameter and at the right cost. The tubes (6m) for the top and down tubes and the sheet metal ended up coming from Holland. We got the chainstays, headset cups (integrated 45), seatube (seatpost size) and bottom bracket from Ceeway  (Framebuilding One Stop Shop). The sheet metal bits were laser cut into gussets and dropouts.

Seat stay welds

BB detail

A hell of a lot of Internet searching was done on what I needed to use as filler metal when welding 4130. You don’t need heat treatment if you use the right one, which saves a massive pain in the neck.

Welding the gussets

Seat stay, top tube and seat tube detail

Welding the frame was pretty hard. There are some crazy places you have to get into and you can’t slow down or you’ll blow a hole. I finally finished the frame on Saturday the 27th August this year.

Burf and the finished frame

Burf has reduced the Boxxers to 150mm travel and the head angle is now 60deg as it sits and around 62/63 in sag

 Why a hardtail? I switched from DH bike to hardtail (DMR ExAlt) when I packed the racing in to concentrate on College/Uni. I figured it would teach me a hell of a lot about riding a bike and there was also no need for an 8in DH bike on the South Downs ( I live near Brighton) or in Oxford. Never gone back really. Only in the Alps do I pull the DH bike out from under the bed now.

 So the frame is designed as a DH specific hardtail because I can’t buy one and I wanted one for years. 150 rear axle, 83 bottom bracket. Slack as you like head angle.

 I couldn’t believe it when I first rode it. It feels just like a DH bike. In the corners it feels like you can squish it like you do on a full suss. It’s so stable and yet still feels light and flick-able.

 It feels so good ripping some turns and drifting on a frame you made yourself. I’m basically just trying to break it now. What with it being the first frame I ever built I expected something to go on the first ride but it’s doing pretty good. Had a couple weekends riding and raced it at Porc the other week

Still no cracks icon smile Homemade Bikes: Paul Burford and the BTR Mark 1

It’s taken a long time from when we first decided to make a frame to when we could ride it. I’ve hardly ridden or seen anyone apart from work people and my girlfriend for over a year. Trying to figure out how to make the tools I needed has been the most fun. I had an Idea of what I wanted them to do and then started building, figured each bit out as I went and the feeling you get when it does its job is awesome.

As I said we are hoping to turn this into a company so at the moment I’m building another frame, making a website and doing lots more Internet searching. We have a Facebook page:  www.facebook.com/BTR.Fabrications

If you want to learn how to weld, get welding info, or you are a welder, go here: www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php

Paul Burford

That hankerin’ is just getting worse! :|

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More Homemade Bikes: Welwyn Machine Works SBV

Continuing on the Homebrew bike theme, here is Mark and the Welwyn Machine Works SBV.

Mark’s creation, the WMW SBV

Having recently seen the excellent Bedfo Super Bike on the Dirt website and Billy’s call to other homebrew builders to get in touch, I thought some of you might be interested in seeing the bike I built for myself a couple of years ago – the Welwyn Machine Works  – SBV (silent but violent).

Intro

Below is a summary from a blog (www.welwynmachineworks.blogspot.com) I originally wrote to accompany my bike project, which was meant to document the project and gives more background info.

Start

Back in 2003 I saw an article in the Sept/Oct issue of Dirt on Brooklyn Machine Works’ FQ Mini link, and the quirkiness of it just caught my imagination:

Back issue of Dirt on Brooklyn Machine Works’ FQ Mini link

The expense of the BMW frames combined with a lack of riding prowess meant I could never really justify getting such a high end frame. However I enjoy designing and building stuff so thought maybe I could build my own version, (though at the time the last bit of serious metal work I’d done had been making a metal key fob years ago at school).

Design

Initially I was aiming to copy the main features of the BMW’s race link – high pivot point, jack drive (two chain system) to isolate peddling from suspension action and low centre of gravity, (Also nicked the idea for the bike/blog name).

As things turned out there was quite a gap between initially being inspired to build and actually getting in a position to do so.  There was a long period of design exploration and learning to fillet braze at evening classes.  Having gone round in circles with the design, it turned out that an experience at a really muddy Dragon Downhill race in Caerphilly revised the design aims – as follows:

• 170-180mm travel
• Rearward wheel travel
• Single pivot simplicity (ignoring the fancy shock linkages)
• Maximum mud clearance
• Singlespeed – again for simplicity and quietness
• Constructional simplicity (nearly all the experienced frame builders advise on building a hardtail as first frame.. but where’s the fun in that!)

I used to use CAD daily as part of my job drawing building details, so got the know how to produce designs through that.  I designed mainly in 2D using CAD, and then used the 2D elevations/sections as a base to make a 3D model. The CAD images are a bit geeky, but I like the old skool exploded type drawings, so what the hell.  Plus they’ve been useful to include in my portfolio for interviews.

I’ve tried to make up for having no formal engineering education, by researching frame building and design on t’internet.  There’s an amazing amount of information out there regarding bike design and fabrication, which helped make the whole project achievable.  Having seen what other builders are using material wise and studying a hell of a lot of pics of bike frames, I tend to go by -’ if it looks ok hopefully it’ll be ok’.

Construction

One of the main obstacles I had to overcome with this project is that I didn’t have a decent workspace.  In the end I resulted to stretching a tarpaulin across the back yard to keep the worst of the weather at bay.  Available tooling was limited to hacksaw, files, emery cloth and a pillar drill.  All the metal parts were cut/shaped by hand using these tools, with pretty reasonable results.

The actually fabrication of the frame all went a bit ‘Scrapheap Challenge’ when the only foreseeable window of opportunity to hire an oxy acetylene torch and get a clear crack at building this thing was over the 2008 Christmas holiday.  What followed a relaxing Christmas day was 8-9 frantic days working, against the deadline of having to go back to work and losing access to the welding equipment.

The hardest part of the build was making and setting up the bloody frame jig, and whole experience was super frustrating, as just when you thought you had everything aligned something would shift and throw out everything else.

Jig

Tacked up in the jig.

Conditions weren’t ideal for brazing as it was bloody cold that Christmas and it was tricky getting heat into the tubes and keeping it there, to get the brass to flow.  I’d be the first to point out the joints aren’t the prettiest around, but a hell of a lot of brass went into them, so hopefully there are some tidy internal fillets.

Fillet brazing

 

Soaking the flux off

 

Assembly begins

 

Facts n figures

• 66 deg head angle.
• Total bike weight rough 46lbs.
• BB height is quite tall, but that suits me.
• Bearings to linkages are held in place by shims made from Oranjeboom beer cans!
• Shock bushings for first test ride were also bodged together from beer cans.
• Rear wheel uses a Profile Racing BMX disc hub.
• Rear shock is a secondhand Avalanche unit – which I seemed to have lucked out with the spring rate.

Finished

Before test ride

 

After first test ride.

 

WMW 28

WMW 28

Mega 2009

 

The ride

I haven’t ridden many downhill bikes so can’t really compare mine against them, but I think the fundamentals seem to be right.  The first test ride was initially a little disappointing, as other than a few nerves it felt pretty normal with no major quirks.  To me it feels good at speed and the suspension is pretty plush and soaks up the trail well. The single speed gearing is just about right if a little hard on the flatter sections, and other than the profile hub buzzing away it was pretty damn quiet on the rough stuff, so its living up to its name – s.v.b (silent but violent).

I took it out to Chatel last year and it survived seven days back to back riding, which was a real buzz, something I was hoping to relive this year, but unfortunately it wasn’t to be.

I know it’s pretty agricultural in it terms of the execution of its construction (which is something I’m hoping to improve on with the next frame) but I have to say I think I enjoy riding it all the more for this.  I like its scruffy nature and it suits my sketchy riding.

Yellow heavy slow

 

Next time?

Lessons learnt, and future aims:

 

Simplify the construction – reduce the reliance on bolts.
Lighten – reduce size of linkages, and use of bolts.
Longer front triangle, and shorter swingarm / chainstay length
Slacker head angle and reduced suspension travel.
Review cable routing – decent routing is a black art.
Keep singlespeed setup, basic suspension layout and mud clearance
TIG welded instead of fillet brazing – I don’t like the responsibility of handling acetylene tanks.

wmw mk2 – mighty matey

 

How much did the project cost? – now thats the question I’ve so far managed to avoid finding an anwser to!  Somewhere I’ve got the most of the receipts squirrelled  away, but I’ve deliberately not added it all together. Put it this way frame building isn’t a cheap hobby, and probably not the cheapest way to get yourself a frame (unless you already have access to and the skills to use all the tooling e.g. lathe, welder), but I was able to spread the costs over quite a long time.

The actual materials aren’t that cheap, and often a bit hard to find, with some getting sourced from the US.  It’s the little things that all start to add up e.g. delivery charges (metal isn’t light!), import tax, consumables, welding gear (in this case the hire of).  As a pure guess maybe the whole bike was in the region of £1500 (using some secondhand and donated items), but I could be way off.

Hopefully the above has been interesting, and shows what can be achieved with pretty limited resources.  It’s hard work but definitely worth the effort when you’re left grinning ear to ear at the bottom of a run!

Finally I’d like to say a quick thanks to anyone who’s helped out along the way, with this project.

Cheers,

Mark

Original article here

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Rider down: Matti Lehikoinen

Damn, it seems like it’s a day for this kinda news:

Big healing vibes out to Matti Lehikoinen who crashed heavily at the Nordic Champs in Sweden at the weekend.

Poor Matti has had more than his fair share of injuries over the years, we really hope he makes a speedy and full recovery from this one.

Here’s the official word:

It’s with great sadness to let you know that Team ChainReactionCycles.com/Nukeproof rider Matti Lehikoinen was involved in a serious crash while racing at the Nordic Downhill Championships in Kungsberget-Sweden over the weekend.

Photo:MTBCut

Full details of the incident are as yet unclear, but the crash happened during the finals of the event in which local rider Robin Wallner and Matti were battling it out for the win. Robin wrote on his blog: “As I was about to exit the woods I saw Matti on the ground next to the track.”

We’re glad to say that although Matti has undergone two brain scans already, doctors have confirmed that no brain damage has been done and he’s currently in a stable condition in hospital. We spoke to Matti’s partner, Anna, who told us, “Matti’s jaw, cheekbone, teeth and nose are pretty badly damaged, and he will have surgery on Wednesday.”

Everyone at CRC, the team and sponsors which him a fast recovery. Post your messages of support on the Team Facebook page now.

www.facebook.com/ChainReactionCycles#!/TeamChainReactionCycles

Article here

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The two pastimes I love most!

Mountain bike photography technique

Great article on dpreview.com by Seb Rodgers;

Good sports photography isn’t easy. Many popular sports – football or motor racing, for example – give amateur photographers limited access. To make matters worse, getting close enough to the action for worthwhile shots can involve expensive long lenses that are beyond the financial reach of many photographers.

Mountain biking is different. Whether it’s on a recreational level in beautiful surroundings or part of the race scene with pro-level riding, access is straightforward. A DSLR with standard zoom is all you need to get started, and the techniques for bike photography translate to other sports too. It’s a great way into sports shooting.

Panning

The fundamental point about an action photo is that, by definition, the subject is moving rather than stationary. While this may well be a case of stating the obvious, it leads to an equally obvious point that underpins all sports photography techniques: if the subject is moving, the camera should be moving too. It’s a technique that most people call ‘panning’, but I prefer to refer to it as ‘tracking’. Tracking the subject accurately in the viewfinder is the key to consistently good action shots.

Here’s how it works: as you record an image with your camera, the shutter is open for a brief period of time. During that time the lens projects an image of the subject onto the camera’s sensor. If the projected image moves while the shutter is open, the resulting image is blurred. If it doesn’t move, the image will be sharp. So the idea of tracking your subject is to keep the projected image of your subject – in this case, bike and rider – in the same position on the image sensor throughout the entire duration of the exposure. That way the bike and rider will be sharp. If the background moves a lot during the exposure it’ll be blurred, but that’s okay because it simply adds to the sense of speed.

Two tricks will help you get better tracking shots. First, don’t try to follow the entire bike and rider. Instead, pick one small area – the rider’s head usually works well, because however rough the terrain it’ll tend to move fairly smoothly – and concentrate on keeping that locked into a specific area of the viewfinder. Using an AF point helps, or imagine that you’re a sniper tracking a target. Rotate with your hips and follow through after you’ve taken the shot, much like a golf swing.

Second, practice using different shutter speeds to achieve different effects. Higher speeds mean you don’t have to track as accurately but won’t blur the background as effectively. Slower speeds make a precise pan more critical, but emphasise speed with a creamy blur behind the rider.

ISO 200, 1/60 sec, F16

ISO 200, 1/250 sec, F8

ISO 100, 1/15 sec, F9

The degree of background blur depends on subject speed, distance from the camera position and shutter speed. 1/60sec is at the lower end of usable speeds for reliably repeatable results, while 1/250sec makes life easier but reduces the effect of the background blur and makes the bike look as though it’s going slower. By the time you’re down to 1/15sec results are very hit-and-miss – the shot above works because the rider’s glasses are sharp, giving a focal point for the viewer to concentrate on.

Lens choice

Unlike many sports, mountain biking usually allows photographers to get up close and personal with the action. Most race venues have trackside spectator access and, if you can ride yourself, you’ll have access to an infinite variety of shooting positions on any recreational trail.

In practice this makes mountain bike photography incredibly accessible. All you need to get started is a camera with standard or kit zoom. The wide end of the zoom range allows you to get close to the action or include some context, while the longer end gives scope for some cropping.

Because bikes tend to follow a predictable path along a trail, it’s relatively safe – with a bit of experience – to get in very close trailside. Ultra wide lenses – to 10mm for APS-C or around 15mm full frame – can work incredibly well to pull the viewer into the thick of the action, giving a powerful sense of involvement that tends to be lacking with long lens pics.

Some discretion is needed, of course. It’s possible to get close enough to a rider for a stray pedal, handlebar or elbow to snag an unwary photographer in passing. Wide lenses also tend to ‘pull’ wheels into oval shapes in the corners of the frame, which can look disconcerting.

At the other end of the scale long lenses can be useful for a couple of reasons. In some situations it may not be possible to get close to the action. If you need to pull the subject in to fill the frame, a long lens may be your only choice. But a long lens can also be used to compress the apparent perspective in a shot, appearing to bring the background closer to the rider in a way that can sometimes work well.

This compression can work against the photographer, though. It’s generally harder to incorporate a sense of movement into long lens images of mountain biking, so they can have less immediate visual impact. Good composition and an aggressive riding style are often key to successful long lens bike images.

Here’s the same rider on the same section of trail, shot from different positions on different lenses. The longer lens compresses the apparent perspective, making the distant hills and lake appear larger relative the rider. The wide shot is more dynamic, making the viewer feel as though they’re right next to the bike – but the background is far less prominent. Each shot works, but gives a completely different view of the same scenario.

Lighting

The vast majority of mountain biking takes place outdoors during daylight hours, with obvious benefits for photographers. Natural light is generally plentiful and always free, so there’s little need to break out the strobes except in specific circumstances.

Most cameras perform best with a preset manual white balance. Auto white balance can throw a curve ball at any time, giving inconsistent results even when the light hasn’t changed. I prefer to set my cameras to 5000k and make small adjustments as necessary during raw processing. Setting ‘sunny’ or ‘daylight’ works pretty well too. Even if you habitually shoot jpeg, a white balance that’s consistently very slightly too warm or cool is easier to sort out than one that fluctuates all over the place.

The best natural light occurs at either end of the day when the sun’s shining. If you have the luxury of being able to choose both where and when to shoot, the long shadows and warm light of early morning and late afternoon can give the same kind of modelling and ‘feel’ that many landscape photographers strive for. For shooting under heavy tree cover, on the other hand, it’s best to pick an overcast day. Strong sunlight creates exceptionally high contrast under the tree canopy, creating unattractive pools of either burnt out highlights or blocked in shadows.

There are times when flash can help – when the light’s low, any time you’re shooting in close with a wide lens, to fill in deep shadows in the subject, or just to make use of a strobe’s very brief duration to help freeze the action. Newcomers to flash should begin with a shoe-mounted strobe set to TTL automatic, which allows easy experimentation with shutter speed and flash ratio (via exposure compensation) to light bike and rider.

For maximum versatility, though, nothing beats remote off-camera flash. Most riders aren’t the least bit bothered by flash while riding, so it’s normally possible to position the light where you need it. A single strobe can be used to provide the main light, while a second unit can add a rim or back-lighting effect for extra impact.

Remote-flash setup

ISO 400, 1/100 sec, F6.3, shot with remote flash

Remote flash can help to add contrast and life on a dull overcast day, or to reduce contrast in situations where deep shadows and bright highlights would otherwise cause a severe exposure headache. The brief duration of a strobe’s light output also works well with slow shutter speeds to give an effective mix of sharp subject against a blurred backdrop.

Composition

The single biggest contribution to lacklustre composition in any action photography is a DSLR’s autofocus system. All of them, by necessity, are designed around a central focus point, creating a tendency for centralised – and boring – compositions. Want to improve your composition? Turn off the AF. Or, at the very least, prefocus and recompose.

It isn’t as hard to do this with mountain bike photography as you might imagine. Mountain bikes largely follow a predetermined path – usually on a narrow trail – and cover the ground at relatively low speeds – up to 40mph or so, but usually much slower. The combination of these factors means it’s not hard to pre-visualise the shot you want, pre-focus the camera on the point where you want the bike and rider to be, then squeeze the shutter button at the appropriate moment. By not relying on the camera’s autofocus system to track the bike and rider you’re now free to ignore the position of AF points in the viewfinder, allowing much more dynamic composition.

The key point is to place bike and rider somewhere other than the centre of the frame. It doesn’t particularly matter whether they’re on a rule of thirds intersection, in a corner, or somewhere else entirely. The very fact that they’re not central will immediately help to grab the viewer’s attention. Conventional wisdom also suggests that a moving subject should have space ahead of it to move into. Turning this idea on its head so that the rider is about to exit the frame can create more tension and add to the sense of action.

A de-centralised rider is a start, but of course the remainder of the image needs to have the right elements too. Once again, mountain biking’s reliance on a trail can often help. A visible path can be used as a lead-in line to draw the viewer’s eye across the frame towards the rider, particularly if the shot is composed so that the trail runs diagonally through the frame. Add a dramatic backdrop lit with low sun at either end of the day and you have the makings of a great mountain biking image.

Now all that said, up at Fort William last June, armed with my trusty old EOS350D and an EF28-90, I still struggled to capture anything approaching the quality of the examples you see above! I guess I need more practice, or perhaps I should stick to Landscape photography

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Bedfo’s Super Bike

Introducing Adrian Bedford;

“A bit about me first, I am 33 and live in Dorset, I work as a mechanical design engineer and for the last 8 years I have worked in the Aerospace and Defence industry, I currently design military air to air refuelling equipment.”

“Before getting into the aerospace stuff I worked for Dyson developing some serious purple vacuum cleaners! I’ve always been really keen on making stuff so this project has been in my mind for years, I just haven’t had the facilities to get on with it. I now have a cool workshop and sometimes I find time to tinker!”

“I’ve always wanted to build a frame, initially I wanted to do a full carbon DH bike but over the years my riding has moved towards shorter travel bikes. Being small and light (and living in Dorset!) I find a DH bike a bit too much, trail bikes are way more fun but currently there is not much out there that has decent geometry and will last. I got fed up sending aluminium frames back for warranty so I decided to make something that would last and have everything just how I wanted it.”

“The frame I came up with is based on the Balfa BB7, 150mm travel with high pivot and idler. Here are some geeky stats!”

Geometry
Size 16.5? (Small)
Head angle 65
BB height 12.7?
Wheelbase 44.5?
Chainstay 17.5? (grows to 19? at full travel)
Travel 150mm vertical, 40mm rearward

Front end 4.45 Lbs
Swingarm 2.6 Lbs
Shock 0.6 Lbs
Idler and all the other bits and pieces 0.5 Lbs
Total weight  8.15 Lbs

“The mainframe is steel, 4130 chromoly plain gauge tubes which I hand cut all the joints, my brother Phil CNC’d me a load of parts from 2.5mm 4130 sheet for the shock mount area and to reinforce the main pivot. He also turned me the BB shell and head tube from 4130.”

“Once we had all the bits together a friend of Phil’s fillet brazed it (with my tea making and jigging help!). We didn’t bother to properly jig this first one, just bodge jigged each joint as we went. It moved slightly but I’m pretty happy with it. I reckon its straighter than a lot of top end ali frames.”

“Initially I designed a steel swingarm for it and I made all of the tubes ready, however it had some more complex bits that needed CNC’ing. Phil just didn’t have the time, so I decided to go ahead and make a carbon swingarm as I have everything here in my workshop to do it. Initially I made up some moulds for the dropouts as these were a tricky area, the rest of the swingarm is made without moulds of any sort. I made some simple thin walled tubes and an internal structure linking the shock mount and main pivot area, I then made the rest of the swingarm with blue foam carved to shape.”

“Once it was laid out I started the process of adding the external structure. It was built up 2-3 layers of unidirectional carbon at a time, each compressed and cured. I started it at Christmas and it took pretty much until Easter to get it done! I was seriously anal about getting it right and obviously making sure there was strength where it was needed, with the exception of the finishing layer there is not a single fiber in it that doesn’t add to the structure. Consequently it is massively strong!”

“I’m really happy with the way it rides, its great on the really rough stuff and feels much like my old Balfa did. I’ve been trying to break it for around 3 months without success and its just got through 2 weeks in Verbier with no hitches at all! I’m well pleased with that, its already outlasted the last two aluminium trail bikes I’ve had! Obviously there are things I’d change, the chainstays could be a bit shorter, and the front end a little longer, and it’d be cool if the fork crowns didn’t hit the downtube! But for a first attempt I’m chuffed. Obviously should mention that without Phil’s help making parts and Andy the welding god, this bike would still be a box of bits!”

“I’m now working on making a frame building jig and have some ideas for a really simple 4 or 5?” trail bike built for ragging with a decent head angle and BB height. I’ve also just bought myself a small CNC milling machine so I should be able to make pretty much all of the parts myself.”

“So there you have it, my homemade frame. There are a lot of hours of hard work in these pictures, I home you find them interesting!”

Adrian Bedford

Original article here

 

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In only his first year in Junior, Fraser McGlone has won UK Junior national races and qualified for World Cup finals. Some big things to come from this junior…

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Danny Hart World Champ…Smashing it by over 10 seconds!!

British world champ and junior womens champ for downhill mountain biking yesterday and nothing in the UK national sports press today….. Go figure!?

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